RECIPE: The Green Chile Cheeseburger (from The Great American Burger Book by George Motz)
The New Mexican chile graces nearly every single menu in the state and is rarely found elsewhere. It is a defining aspect of New Mexican cooking and is served either green or red. Green chile has a subtle, earthy flavor, whereas red chile (left on the vine to ripen after the initial fall harvest) has a deep, smoky essence. Both can be found hot or mild, but the best New Mexican chile falls right in the middle, where you can feel some heat and still taste that chile. It’s one of the most distinctive natural flavors in America.
But green chile is not native to New Mexico. The story of how the pepper found its way to the region is fascinating, and begins with Christopher Columbus’s second journey to the Caribbean in the late fifteenth century. He returned to Spain with seeds, introducing Europe to a spicy pepper for the first time. Fifty years later, as Spanish conquistadors colonized the Southwest, they brought their peppers along, altering the area’s generally bland diet forever. Unless you’ve had the great fortune to taste this pepper firsthand it’s somewhat difficult to describe. Imagine a mild Anaheim pepper (a close relative) crossed with a spicy jalapeño—but even that’s not accurate. Most New Mexicans roast their chiles over an open flame to enable easy removal of the skin, leaving the flesh of the pepper soft and smoky. Add this, chopped and stewed, to a thick cheeseburger and prepare your mouth for an out-of-body experience. Every single person I have ever introduced to the Green Chile Cheeseburger has gratified me with an ear-to-ear smile following their first bite. And when my wife (a vegetarian, yep) took a break from her diet after seventeen years, her first burger upon reentry? The most famous in its class the Green Chile Cheeseburger at the Bobcat Bite in Santa Fe, New Mexico.
Hit up a touristy spot in New Mexico and, most likely, green chile will be served mild on your burger. Head to the locals’ favorite spots for real-deal heat. It’s never too hot, but usually served just spicy enough to give you a little endorphin buzz. Writer John T. Edge once described the sensation as how you might feel after shotgunning two beers in rapid succession. He’s not far off.
By design, there’s not much to a great green chile cheeseburger, except, of course, the right chile. Many suppliers near Hatch, New Mexico, will ship you fresh green chiles that you can roast, peel, and eat, but the season is brief (September). New Mexicans are big on freezing chopped chile, making it available by mail all year long. And as for condiments, they are not necessary here. Keep things simple so that you can taste the unadulterated beauty of green chile and beef. Use a good, sharp melty cheddar to glue the whole thing together.
Makes 6 cheeseburgers
Equipment
- A small saucepan
- A 3½-inch (9-cm) food ring or round cutter (recommended, but not required)
- Parchment paper
- A seasoned cast-iron skillet or flat top
- 2 or 3 medium-size metal bowls
The Burger
- 3 cups (450 g) roasted, peeled, and chopped New Mexican green chiles
- Splash of water or beef stock
- 2 pounds (about 1 kg) fresh-ground 80/20 chuck
- Peanut oil, or other neutral oil
- Salt and black pepper for seasoning
- White cheddar cheese, sliced
- 6 seeded soft white buns, toasted
The Toppings
- Don’t even think about it. Toppings other than chile and cheese are unnecessary.
Add the green chiles to the small saucepan with a splash of water or beef stock (just enough to let the chile steam slightly, but not so much it turns into soup). Cover and heat over medium heat until hot. Remove from the heat, keep covered, and set aside.
Divide the beef into 6 even portions (a little over 5½ ounces/155 g each).
Line a clean surface or cutting board with parchment paper to prevent sticking. Working with the food ring, gently press one portion of the beef into the ring to create a perfectly round patty. Don’t over press—you want it to maintain a somewhat loose grind. Repeat with the remaining beef.
Add a few drops of peanut oil to the cast-iron skillet, using the spatula to spread the oil, and crank it up to medium-high heat. When the pan just starts to smoke, it’s ready.
At this point, and not before, season both sides of the patties with a liberal amount of salt and pepper. Salting too early will bind the muscle fibers together and make the burgers tough (not good).
Place the patties in the hot skillet—the beef should sizzle loudly when it hits the pan—and cook for 4 minutes without disturbing them. The goal here is to sear your burgers, sealing in the juices. When you see red liquid start to form on the top of the patties, it’s time to flip them.
Reduce the heat to medium and cook the second side of the patties (without disturbing them) for an additional 6½ minutes. After 4 minutes, add a healthy pile of the green chiles to the top of each patty followed by a slice of cheese. To help melt the cheese, cover the burgers with a metal bowl or large pot lid for the final 2 to 3 minutes of cooking.
Remove the skillet from the heat and allow the burgers to rest for 1½ minutes. The internal temperature of the burgers should be about 143°F (62°C) for medium-rare. Transfer to the toasted buns with nothing else. Serve immediately.
The Great American Burger Book is the first book to showcase a wide range of regional hamburger styles and cooking methods. Author and burger expert George Motz covers traditional grilling techniques as well as how to smoke, steam, poach, and deep-fry burgers based on signature recipes from around the country. Each chapter is dedicated to a specific regional burger, from the tortilla burger of New Mexico to the classic New York–style pub burger, and from the fried onion burger of Oklahoma to Hawaii’s Loco Moco. Motz provides expert instruction, tantalizing recipes, and vibrant color photography to help you create unique variations on America’s favorite dish in your own home.
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